The 2023 Riesling Jean Baptiste Kabinett, named after the founder of the estate, is almost exclusively picked in the Pettenthal. It was harvested from lower parcels, with deeper soils and a slight easterly aspect, meaning earlier shade in the afternoon and at the very top. The 2023 crackles with flinty reduction, crushed nettle and a superbly pure overtone of lemon zest. The palate brings the full force of stone and savory iron oxide. It’s off-dry, playing off that mineral saltiness with red apple ripeness, always underlined by citrus. This is wonderfully captured, with real tension, energy and excitement. Lovely and totally lip-smacking, it balances 28 g/L of residual sweetness with just under 10 g/L of acidity—the latter makes this totally dangerous. (Off-dry)