Disgorged in March 2012, Giraud's 2004 Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Argonne is showing superbly, wafting from the glass with scents of yellow orchard fruit, orange oil, mint, blanched almonds, clear honey and toasted bread. Full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's fleshy and textural, with huge concentration and a vinous, gastronomic profile, concluding with an intensely sapid finish. Seamless and complete, its 100% new oak is beautifully integrated after eight years on cork.